Markets of Chandi Chowk In Delhi

The storyteller ! Beautiful shop

Turban man is for the money the other serves, very serious business
but he only wanted to discuss the cricket !!

A rickshaw ride into the ancient lanes of Chandi Chowk,  the biggest spice market in Asia was an amazing day for me. It appears to be chaos, but millions of traders have been doing business here every day, for centuries, purchasing, loading in and out and I am sure a lot of money changing hands.
A visual and sensual assault. So many spices and dried fruits, teas, rices, lentils and flours. The Indians are great story tellers and if it helps sell their wares,  why not ? Guaranteed to stop old age, make you fertile, help in pregnancy, help breast milk, stop aches and pains and on and on. You can buy tea that has been picked by the light of a silvery moon every seven years. I didn't fall for that one, but the guy selling me the tea, has been convincing people for years and he told me it works. Hilarious !
I tried some delicious food at such little cost. Paratha from the very ancient Paranthewali making paratha since the 1800's. A plate with dahl, coriander and mint chutney, a fruit chutney and a vegetable curry to have with our paratha for the cost of $1.00. Simply delicious !
The jalebis ,orange whirl of batter dipped in a sugar syrup. Samosas, from Japani Samosawala a 40 years old business. Lassis and mango ice cream, spicy chaat to take home, and amazing sweets. We had coffee at the Jain coffee house.
Most of these places are open every day. The old places are highly specialised and much loved. So enjoyable wandering the ancient lanes in a market like no other I have been.
In the afternoon we ventured to a Sikh Temple Kitchen or Langar where thousands of people  of every caste creed and colour are fed twice seven days a week .
It is run by volunteers who see this as part of their spiritual service.
Massive woks and cauldrons, are stirred with shovels and churn out tons and tons of dahl. Other
workers are making chapatis. I have never seen kitchens or cooking pots so huge and so clean.This wonderful service is done in a very orderly manner. People queue up outside and upon entering sit in orderly lines, are given a plate then served their meal. It takes no time to eat, as they leave the plates are passed back to the kitchen, the floors are swept and the next lot enter. I am sure this goes on in most major cities where a Sikh Temple is, but having not seen it I found quite spiritual and comforting amidst the chaos of Delhi.

Feeding the masses

Volunteers making the bread

Large woks of dahl

Incredible India

After years of wanting to travel to India and having a non interested partner, our good friends and part of our travelling group suggested we go on a trip to Rajasthan with them. Whether the thought of company or I am game if you are, he relented and has turned out to be the most ardent fan.
What an amazing country. Culturally and historically mind blowing. Gastronomically absolutely delicious. We did stay in the stunning Oberoi Hotels which certainly added to the whole experience. Service at these hotels is outstanding and all done with a smile and a great sense of humour. The Indians love Aussies and don't miss a chance to have a chat about the cricket.
As for the food, not sure where to begin, so many memorable meals.
We dined in Indian Accent in Delhi, wow !  Set in  the New Friends Colony in the Manor Hotel in Delhi this restaurant is probably my favourite dining experience anywhere in a long time.
 The charming chef Manish Mehrotra has changed the Indian dining scene. Incredibly innovative fusion food. We were very happy for him to suggest dishes from the menu as I would have ordered everything
As we perused the menu we were given tiny blue cheese naan bread. If you are a lover of naan and blue cheese this little morsel sets the standard of the fare to follow.
Forget the Lamb Korma, we dined on Duck Kurchan Cornettos with Garlic Raita and Chilli Chutney
Pulled Pork Phulka Taco, Tandoori Bacon Prawns with Wasabi Malai Cream, Meetha Achaar Chilean Spareribs with Sundried Mango and Jalonji Seeds, Potato Sphere Chaat with with White Pea Ragda
to name a few. Absolutely amazing inventive cuisine, served by very professional wait staff, in a very warm stylish environment.

Duck Kurchan Cornettos

Meetha Achaar Chilean Spareribs Sun dried Mango and Kalonji Seed

Manish Mehrotra

Bukhara in the ITC Muraya was a meat extravaganza. Frequented by many famous people as told by the photos on the walls. Northern India and Rajistan is mainly vegetarian so obviously a great meat meal is quite sought after. The restaurant boasts the best dhal and the biggest naan bread.

Burhara

Happy Diners

Biggest Naan

The Imperial was our hotel of choice on the return to Delhi. This hotel was built around 1930 and still holds that old world British colonial charm. We had the High Tea in the Atrium which was also a highlight.
The street food tour was amazing, my next blog
There are too many things to write about  tales of Maharajas Forts and Palaces. India is awash with colour and diversity and brings to mind images of valour, deep loyalties and revelry, murder and mayhem, ornate jewellery, stunning handicrafts, imposing architecture and landscapes. On to Varanasi and Agra, for my next instalment

Jama Masjid the largest Mosque in India constructed out of red sandstone and marble

Dining in Ho Chi Minh

As the locals do, I also prefer to call this city Saigon. This is where we finished our journey.
Outside the hustle of the city away from masses of motorbikes we ventured to an organic farm, for our last cooking class.

A day on the Farm

It can't get any fresher than this

Attention in class

In the evening we dined in a very different venue.  The beautiful elegant Ly Club where you are amazingly also secluded from the masses of motorbikes and frenetic energy of the city
Saigon has become quite sophisticated and competes with other major Asian cities for some fabulous dining experiences.
I was appalled when meeting friends of one of my guests on the tour that they had dined at the American steak house near the hotel. They weren't sure where to go, so chose the easy option.
I soon put them straight and gave them a list of my favourite restaurants as a must do.
It is often the case when travelling, that one can end up in some terrible tourist trap, after hours of wandering around looking for somewhere to eat. Hotels, sightseeing and shopping are all organised and to me one of the most important experiences is forgotten.
 Mostly from laziness or on overload from organising the rest of the trip.
This oversight can ruin many dining experiences, both time wise and financially and taint your view of a city or country.
Make the time to check the dining scene wherever you go. You will be rewarded well for doing your homework.
My favourite restaurants in Saigon

Cuc Gach Quan

This gorgeous little casual restaurant is set in suburbia. You would never stumble across it walking around. It is colonial style, a purpose built restaurant designed to feel like a private home. The food is exceptionally good, the environment very stylish and the wine list surprisingly good. Vietnamese home cooking at its best served in a dining, living room space of timber and steel decorated with fabulous recycled items and interesting art work.
Inexpensive and a favourite of Brad and Angelina.

Com Nieu

Broken Rice literally the meaning of the name. Rice is served in a clay pot which is smashed at serving time, as a gimmick, but entertaining none the less. Braised pots of beautiful ribs and delicious seafood dishes all help to make this local restaurant a great dining spot. It is in District 3 about a 20 minute taxi ride out of the main area of District 1. Again not one you would stumble across and not one to miss.

Nam Pham

A beautiful restaurant in  renovated 4 story colonial villa. The decor is superb with marble floors, stone walls and polished wooden furniture all candle lit to provide an intimate atmosphere.
Asian fusion food brings it into the modern dining scene. The menu and wine list are extensive.
A little more expensive than some but worth it.
Another restaurant by the same group is Cham Charm. Banquet style food in a charming gallery setting.

Ly Club

Set in a neo French colonial garden setting, this restaurant is a sheer delight. The menu has a western influence, using local ingredients and spices. The presentation of the food is delightful.
Wines are a little expensive, but this is an upscale restaurant. The ambience of the garden with shimmering pools, bars and mood lighting adds to the glamour of the evening.


Off to India on the week end, so excited........ Stay tuned

Hue to Hoian

Banana benders

After arriving in the ancient city of Hue and exploring the citadel, we were ready to learn a little more
about their cooking style. The markets in this beautiful old city are superb. Locals buy everything here twice a day so all produce is in abundance and so fresh. Cooking utensils, serving bowls herbs and spices, also a bit of jewellery, footwear or sunnies for those who desire.

Starting the day with a little culture

We love the history of Hue and its predominately Chinese influence. Amazing Citadel and Royal Tomb. Food here is slightly different with emphasis on vegetables and seafood. On to the beachside Palm Gardens Resort in Hoian. The wonderful cooking school Morning Glory was our destination for our next class and we also enjoyed the ground floor street market style food.

Expert noodle maker

Fresh as

Birthday girls wear pink

Attention in class

Jardins Carambole for dinner.......... delicious

Birthdays are better in Vietnam, dining at the Les Jardins Carambole.

Dong si dong

Trying to convince us that this is yum........... spicy frog

Very happy with our dishes at Ancient Hue Cooking school

Perfect spring roll ... top of the class